The open market "Pazar" is more than a shopping location, it is a vivid meeting point for the local people: the place to get the fresh groceries and to feel the heartbeat of the town regarding the latest news and happenings in the life of the city. Of course you can get a nice beach towel/souvenir, maybe you'll come across a nice handbag, a pair of sandals, probably made in China. But this is the place for fabulous fresh fruit and vegetables grown locally and amazing flowers, usually imported, but never the less beautiful. Make sure you set a few hours to spend in the atmosphere of the market soaking in the sounds, colors and the scents. If already there get some homemade specialties: some local cheeses as they go great with walnuts and wine on the balcony in the evening. For your family and friends get some honey, homemade schnapps: Travarica, Rogacica or some other homemade liquors and try the sun dried figs and rogac (Carob) these will be great to nibble on in front of the TV when you get back home.
Fish Market-Split, Dalmatia
If you're in town during the morning pass by the fish market, in Marmontova street only a few steps from the Riva -the fish market is more than a market: it's a theater stage, as more than once I've witnessed a few men gathering out of the blue, singing a few traditional Dalmatian songs a Capella -before continuing along their morning routine of sipping a coffee in the town and getting fish and the groceries on the market. Make sure you get some salted anchovies or salted pilchards as with olives and hard cheese they make excellent appetizer or mixed with tomatoes and onion an excellent salad.
The city center and the old town are the place to go for fine clothes, shoes and accessories, the Podrumi (Cellars) of the Diocletian's Palace are The Location for souvenirs and hand made leather accessories and beautiful jewelery. This is where you'll find some great looking leather sandals and handbags. Along the Riva you will find a couple of bookstores and newspaper shops with a good selection of foreign magazines, newspapers and books for some beach reading. Riva and a few streets in the very center of the old town are the place for gold jewelery and eye wear: and trust me you do not want to be in Split without a pair of good quality sunglasses, any time of the year -and especially in the summer. Do your best to get lost in the small cobbled city streets and alleys and no doubt you will run into a lovely art gallery, often selling hand made accessories, unique hand made clothes and shoes Ledenko being the Croatian version of Manolo Blahnik.
And if you still have a few hours and a few pennies to spend, visit one of the few comfortably air-conditioned shopping centers: in the town itself visit JOKER Center and PRIMA GRAD, a little further is the PRIMA 3 shopping area; that's where you will find almost anything, from clothes and shoes to books, multimedia and home decor. Outside the city itself, in the nearby Solin visit the Mercator Center and in Kastel Sucurac The Emmezeta center again with a good selection of products, but at somewhat more affordable prices.